If you ask our customers where they are going, almost every second answer includes Kazbegi. The drive from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda along the Georgian Military Highway is short enough for a day trip, yet it climbs from the city to the foot of Mount Kazbek (5,047 m) through some of the most dramatic scenery in the Caucasus.
The route, stop by stop
Zhinvali Reservoir (≈ 60 km)
The turquoise lake appears on your right about an hour out of Tbilisi. There are several pull-outs with a view — the best photos are in the morning.
Ananuri Fortress (≈ 70 km)
A 17th-century fortress with two churches right on the shore of the reservoir. Parking is next to the walls; plan 30–40 minutes.
Pasanauri (≈ 90 km)
The village that claims to be the home of khinkali. A good lunch stop on the way up or back.
Gudauri and the Friendship Monument (≈ 120 km)
Georgia's main ski resort. Just after it, the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument hangs over the Devil's Valley — one of the most photographed viewpoints in the country.
Jvari Pass (2,379 m)
The highest point of the road. Look out for the travertine mineral springs that colour the slope orange and red.
Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity Church
Stepantsminda is the town; Kazbegi is what everybody calls it. The 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church (2,170 m) sits on the hill above, and a paved road now leads almost to the top — about 15 minutes from the centre. Go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.
Gveleti Waterfall and the Dariali Gorge
A few kilometres north of town, a short hiking path (about 40 minutes one way) leads to Gveleti Waterfall. The road continues to the Dariali Monastery and the Upper Lars border crossing — turn around there: our cars may not leave Georgia.
Which car for the Kazbegi road?
The highway is asphalt all the way, so any car will do in summer. Most of our customers still take an SUV with all-wheel drive: it is more comfortable on the steep serpentine around Gudauri, gives more ground clearance on the road up to Gergeti and is the safer choice from November to April, when snow is common above 1,500 m.
Juta and Truso valleys are not allowed with our cars. Both roads turn into rough off-road tracks. You can drive the paved road towards Juta as far as Sno village; from there, local 4×4 taxis wait in Stepantsminda and Kobi and take you to the trailheads for a fair price.
Winter driving
- Jvari Pass can be closed for hours during heavy snowfall or avalanche risk — check the road status before you leave Tbilisi.
- Winter tyres are fitted on our cars for the season; in heavy snow the police may require chains between Gudauri and Kobi.
- Leave Stepantsminda before dark: the serpentine is slower in the snow than your navigation app thinks.
Practical tips
- Fuel up in Tbilisi or Pasanauri; there are few petrol stations above Gudauri.
- Trucks heading to the Russian border can be slow on the climb — overtake only where you can see far ahead.
- Cows on the road are normal. Slow down in villages.
- Staying overnight in Stepantsminda is worth it: sunrise over Kazbek from Gergeti is the reason most people come.
Planning a longer trip? Kazbegi combines easily with Kakheti (wine country) or with a loop west through Gori and Kutaisi. Tell us your route when you book and we will pick the right car for it.